September 2009
November 14th, 2009Mackinaw
We began our trip by heading north spending our first night in Mackinaw City.
Mackinaw
We began our trip by heading north spending our first night in Mackinaw City.
Beginning travel
We took the train from South Bend, Indiana, to Chicago; then boarded a flight to Seoul. After trying to catch a few winks in the Seoul airport it was on to Beijing. Goshen to Beijing, door to door, took about 38 hours.
Beijing
Beijing is a clean modern city with many sky scrapers and modern highways. We saw the venues for the 2008 Olympics and had dinner with MCC (Mennonite Central Committee) representatives who live there.
Ulaanbaatar, Mongolia
After one night in Beijing we flew to Ulaanbaatar, capital of Mongolia.
Bayanhongor, Mongolia.
We took a 1-hour flight to Bayanhongor and stayed 2 nights with Mennonite worker Laura Schlabach.
Bus trip
We returned from Bayanhongor to Ulaanbaatar by bus — about 12 hours.
Farm visit
From Ulaanbaatar we took a one-day excursion to a dairy farm begun by an American and now turned over to Mongolian farmers.
Xian
From Mongolia we flew to Xian via Beijing and stayed in a very nice hostel — more like a small hotel.
Xian — Terracotta Warriors
We visited the archeological site for which Xian is now famous — 6,000 terracotta warriors buried in formation to guard the tomb of an ancient ruler.
Xian Bell Tower
The ancient bell tower was used in the morning. We heard a short musical program on traditional instruments in the Bell Tower.
Xian Drum Tower
The ancient drum tower is on the other side of a plaza from the bell tower. It was used in the evening. We also heard a short percussion program there.
Xian Great Mosque
The Great Mosque in Xian has many beautiful courtyards and gateways.
Street Vendors and Food
In Xian we enjoyed tasting the “street food” both during the day and at night.
Great Goose Pagoda
We visited the Great Goose Pagoda in Xian.
Dumpling Dinner & Show
In Xian we treated ourselves to a dumpling dinner and show. We were served about 20 different kinds of dumplings. Many of them were shaped to look like whatever was in them. For example, fish dumplings were shaped to look like fish.
Chengdu
From Xian we flew to Chengdu, and were hosted by Mr Yang of Sichuan Normal University. In the past he was a key official who facilitated the exchange program with Goshen College.
Leshan
From Chengdu we took a 2-day excursion to Leshan and Mt Emei. On the way to Leshan we stopped at a tea plantation. In Leshan we had lunch with Dennis & Virginia Roth, visited the Giant Buddha, and walked around a preserve.
Mt Emei
We used a bus, cable car, and our feet to reach the top of Mt Emei.
Indonesian Friends
In Kunming we met Indonesian friends: Ibu Wietje, her daughter Cheryl who graduated from Goshen College, Cheryl’s husband Rieswan, and their daughter Kayra. Rieswan works with an Indonesian business that has a branch in Kunming.
Stone Forest
Western Hills
We spent another day in the Western Hills on the edge of Kunming.
Train to Tibet
From Kunming we flew north to Lanzhou where we got on a train to Xining. After a 4-hour wait in Xining we boarded another train bound for Lhasa,Tibet. It is the world’s highest railway with 80% of the route over 14,000 feet above sea level. From Xining to Lhasa took about 28 hours.
Lhasa
Lhasa is the center of Tibetan culture and history. We stayed at the Cool Yak Hotel in the old part of town under the watchful gaze of a visible and invisible Chinese presence. We enjoyed mingling with the crowds and shopping at the myriad small stands.
Jokhang Temple
The Jokhang Temple is a major site for Tibetan Buddhism.
Potala Palace
The Potala, residence for several Dalai Lamas, is the political and religious heart of Tibet.
Monastaries
We enjoyed visiting four different monasteries – two of them near Lhasa and two others about an hour away.
Former Goshen College Student
In Lhasa we were able to meet our good friend and former Goshen College student, Tsegi. She teaches English at the university and also has started an organization that offers a variety of classes to the community.
Return to Beijing
From Lhasa we flew back to Beijing. Staying there 6 days, we visited many attractions, but we also enjoyed walking to a park and sampling street food in our neighborhood.
Summer Palace
In Beijing we toured the Summer Palace, built by the only female Chinese ruler, Empress Cixi.
Forbidden City
We also toured the Forbidden City, ancient seat of Chinese government.
Temple of Heaven
The Temple of Heaven is a beautiful round structure centered in a square plaza to symbolize the meeting of Heaven and Earth. At the end of this tour we also were treated to a demonstration of how to smell and drink tea.
Silk
We visited a silk showroom and saw demonstrations of how it is produced and utilized.
Hu tongs
We spent a day walking through several Hu tongs – traditional housing areas.
Great Wall
We took a day trip to the Great Wall. On the return we stopped for an introduction to traditional Chinese medicine and a foot massage.
Beijing Cultural Shows
We attended two different shows while in Beijing. The first included a dinner and was a variety of Chinese dance and music. The second was Chinese acrobats. Both were quite spectacular.
Tien’anmen
We spent a day at Tien’anmen Square and the surrounding area.
Our last evening in Beijing
We spent our last evening with our hosts in Beijing, Rita Fei and her husband Jaming. Rita Fei, once an English student of Bill and Phyl, is now the Managing Director of the Chinese subsidiary of Boon Edam, a Dutch revolving door company.
Signs in English
We were happy to find many signs in China written in English under the Chinese characters. This made it much easier to find our way around. However, sometimes we found the terminology or grammar rather interesting. Here are a few examples.
Thu, 6 Aug 2009
University of British Columbia & vicinity
Bowen Island
Whistler
Victoria
Work-out and Relax
Butchart Gardens
Fri, 7 Aug 2009
Sproat Lake & Port Alberni
Bamfield excursion
Black Creek & vicinity
Strathcona Provincial Park
Telegraph Cove
Sunshine Coast
Vancouver City
Seattle
Â
This summer we decided to bike around Lake Ontario, including side trips through the Rideau Canal region up to Ottawa and along both sides of the Thousand Islands region of the St Lawrence Seaway. We began in Canandaigua, New York, and planned to return there, but our trip ended abruptly near Ogdensburg, New York, when Sally Jo was hit by an on-coming car. This map shows what we covered of our intended route (in yellow) and the trip by ambulance to a trauma center in Syracuse, New York (in red). We completed 900 miles and had about 250 more to go.
June 14: Driving to Canandaigua, New york
We loaded the bikes on our car and headed for Canandaigua.
June 15: Canandaigua to Palmyra(25.16 miles)
We left our car with friends and set out, stopping along the way to visit several Mormon sites — the log cabin where Joseph Smith was born and raised and Hill Cumorah where he found the gold plates containing the Book of Mormon.
In Palmyra we followed the Erie Canal bike path east a ways before returning to a nice B & B for the night.
June 16: Palmyra to Hamlin Beach(58.04 miles)
Heading west, the first 45 miles were along the Erie Canal path, skirting the city of Rochester. We stopped along the way to rest and enjoy the scenery. At Brockford we headed north to our campsite at Hamlin Beach State Park.
June 17: To Four Mile Creek State Park(60.07 miles)
The day began with threatening clouds but then turned out to be a rather hot day. We stopped along the way to enjoy the shore of Lake Ontario. Our campsite was at Four Mile Creek State Park.
June 18: To Niagara-On-The-Lake, Ontario(28.52 miles)
We enjoyed a view of Lake Ontario before heading south to Lewiston. There we had to climb a steep escarpment before crossing the bridge into Ontario. On the other side of the Niagara river we had a nice look at Fort Niagara, New York. We stayed at a home on the shores of Lake Ontario and enjoyed dinner by the water.
June 19: To Hamilton(40.02 miles)
We biked through wine country to one of the locks on the Welland Canal. Shortly after we crossed a bridge over the canal it was raised to allow a ship to pass. Most of the day we were on the service road beside the QEW (a major expressway). Late in the afternoon we took refuge under an overpass to avoid a large storm and then were transported by a kind man in a pick-up truck to a nearby motel.
June 20: Hamilton to Toronto(68.00 miles)
Although the day was long, we found it very enjoyable — many bike lanes and off-road paths with nice views of the lake and the city of Toronto in the distance. We spent the night in a home on the northeast side of the city.
June 21: To Darlington Provincial Park(30.61 miles)
We got to Darlington Provincial Park shortly after noon. Since it looked like rain was coming we decided to stop and hurriedly set up camp just before the rain began. However, it did not last long and we had a nice afternoon and evening to explore the park.
June 22: To Cobourg(42.32 miles)
We enjoyed quiet roads through beautiful farmland with nice views of the lake. We spent the night in Cobourg with relatives — Ron’s aunt and uncle and their son and wife.
June 23: Cobourg to Sandbanks Prov Park(71.71 miles)
A long day of biking, but there were many nice views of the lake and farmland. We found a nice lunch spot near the beginning of the Trent – Severn Canal system before going on to our destination at Sandbanks Provincial Park.
June 24: Resting at Sandbanks Prov Park(4 miles for firewood and ice cream)
We stayed 2 nights at Sandbanks Provincial Park to give ourselves a break. We spent the day doing a short hike, geting snacks at the camp store, and enjoying the water channel next to our campsite, including the family of swans that came by numerous times.
June 25: Sandbanks to Kingston(50.20 miles)
From Sandbanks we biked about 10 miles to breakfast in Picton. After a short ferry crossing we travelled near water all day and stayed overnight in a dormitory on the campus of Queen’s University. We celebrated 42 years of marriage at a nice restaurant in Kingston but did not take a photo!
June 26: Kingston to Westport(39.08 miles)
It was a hot difficult day over many hills to get to Westport, but we passed a number of beautiful small lakes along the way.
June 27: Westport to Perth(19.71 miles)
The hill leaving Westport was the steepest we had seen — we had to walk the final portion — but then the route to Perth became flatter. We passed an interesting mail box made from a bicycle. In Perth we stayed with Ron’s cousin, and she took us to nearby Smith’s Falls for a fish & chips pub dinner.
June 28: Perth to Ottawa(57.23 miles)
We saw many rail fences between Kingston and Ottawa. In Ottawa our last 5 miles were along the Rideau Canal with a beautiful view of the Parliament buildings at one point. We stayed two nights with friends who live there.
June 29: Ottawa(11.33 miles around the city)
The Rideau Canal, built for military purposes, begins in Ottawa with a series of locks engineered to lift vessels from the Ottawa River up to the canal.
We did some biking on the many bike paths in the city but spent most of the day at the Museum of Civilization, located on the Quebec side of the river with a beautiful view across to the Parliament buildings.
June 30: Ottawa to Merrickville(49.53 miles)
Our route to Merrickville followed the Rideau River. We passed a bicycle decorated for Canada Day. Our campsite was at the edge of Merrickville next to a portion of the Rideau canal system.
July 1: Canada Day in Merrickville(0.00 miles!)
Merrickville occupied a strategic location along the canal as indicated by the blockhouse guarding a lock.
We enjoyed the small town celebration of Canada Day. Back at the campground campers were decorated for the occasion and there was a free hotdog roast for everyone in the evening.
July 2: To Charleston Lake(50.94 miles)
Our route to Charleston Lake Provincial Park was over more quiet roads through beautiful scenery. The lake itself is quite large with many scenic inlets.
July 3: Charleston Lake Prov Park(2.97 miles for firewood & snacks)
We spent the day hiking about 7 miles over a nice variety of terrain. We were about as tired as if we had biked 70 miles!
July 4: To Brockville(50.39 miles)
We made our way south to the St. Lawrence River/Seaway where we took a bikepath along the Thousand Island Parkway to Brockville.
July 5: Brockville to Ingleside(53.24 miles)
After a rainy night in a Brockville motel we were happy to see the sun peak through the clouds. We passed one of the long bridges across the St. Lawrence connecting the U.S.A. and Canada. Our campsite was on an island in the river near Ingleside and was beautifully situated next to the water. As we did all along the way, firewood was brought to our site on the back of Ron’s bike.
July 6: Ingleside, ON to Massena, NY(37.42 miles)
We had nice off-road bike paths all the way to Cornwall, Ontario, near the Quebec border. There we crossed two large bridges to re-enter the U.S. We got a campsite at Robert Moses State Park near Massena, New York, and saw a beautiful sunset that evening.
July 7: Massena to Ogdensburg(44.76 miles)
Leaving Robert Moses State Park we rode through a tunnel under a large seaway lock. The road had a nice wide paved shoulder and was not heavily travelled. When the day turned wet it was time again to put on our rain gear. From our motel near Ogdensburg we had a rainy view of the St. Lawrence and across to the Ontario side where we had biked a couple of days before.
July 8: Abrupt End of Trip — (4.27 miles) Shortly after leaving Ogdensburg Sally Jo was struck by an on-coming car. For details about the accident and aftermath see next post.
The accident scene
Sunday, July 8, at about 9 am, we were just over 4 miles down the road from where we had stayed outside Ogdensburg, New York. A vehicle coming from the opposite direction crossed the center line and headed directly for Sally Jo who was riding a little ways behind me. The impact was terrifying, and I (Ron) watched as the vehicle continued on striking an electric pole and rolling over spilling its contents all over the place. It was obvious that Sally Jo was seriously injured, but she was alert and responding. Other people came running up immediately, and emergency help was soon on the scene. At that point it felt to me like there was a whole host of angels around us.
Sally Jo was transported to a nearby hospital and then transferred to the University Hospital in Syracuse, New York 13210. Her injuries were serious, but not as bad as was first feared. Her spleen was bleeding and initial CAT scans showed a large gash in her pancreas. Several bone fractures were also identified, the most serious being the top of her pelvis that included a large open wound. Thankfully she did not suffer any head or neck injuries.
Intensive Care
Surgery began at 11 pm that night and concluded at 4 am Monday. They were able to stop the bleeding of the spleen and determined that the gash in the pancreas was just a fold or dimple. So that was wonderful news. The orthopedic surgeon repaired her pelvic bone and closed the wound, but it continued to leak fluids for several days. On Thursday she was ready and had surgery for broken bones in two other areas: her upper left arm and her ankle. In addition they installed a special foam pump to drain the fluids and help her hip wound heal. Friday was a difficult day because they had to leave the ventilator in due to fluid build-up in her body and lungs, but by Friday evening they were able to take it out and start her on a liquid diet again. Since then things began to improve more, and on Sunday, one week after the accident, she was finally transferred out of intensive care and into a regular hospital room.
Out of ICU
After one week Sally Jo was moved out of intensive care and into a regular hospital room. She was also placed on a normal diet.
Even though far from home, we were overwhelmed by all of the support we received both from strangers as well as friends, relatives, and their many connections. There were also many flowers and many, many cards, e-mails, and phone calls.
Near the end of the second week Sally Jo was started on rehab and continues to make very good progress.
Epilogue
Ten weeks after the accident we were back on the road using borrowed 3-wheelers that could be hooked together in tandem. In December we enjoyed hiking in Arizona mountains. In May, 2008, Sally Jo got her new replacement bicycle and christened it with a 23-mile ride near home. We are all set-up for more biking adventures!
Church
This year we have enjoyed attending the church that meets on the seminary campus next door to the university. The building itself is full of Papuan and Christian symbolism. The bas relief behind the pulpit depicts people from a variety of cultures in Papua sitting at the table with Christ. We are often treated to very energetic music. After the Sunday service we have on occasion been invited to the home of a church leader for coffee. At such an event recently a banner was presented by a visitor from the Netherlands.
MCC Funded Library
Sally Jo has devoted some time recently to helping a newly-develop small community library that is being set up by two young men who spent time in North America under the MCC International Visitor Exchange Program.
Outing to Amay Beach
A family that we have learned to know offered to take us and other friends to a very beautiful beach about two hours away. We enjoyed salt water and waves as well as a near-by fresh water river. It was a wonderful Saturday!
MCC Retreat
We recently enjoyed the annual MCC retreat at a beautiful resort beach hotel on the island of Lombok. It included all MCC Indonesia personnel and their families, about 40 people. The stay at the hotel included a free massage, and there were also times for singing, sand castle competition, and small group discussions. On talent night we demonstrated and taught the Texas Waltz.
Lombok Excursions
While at retreat we had opportunities to see more of the island of Lombok horse-drawn carts, a hindu temple, craft making, a beautiful waterfalls, and an evening meal in a nice restaurant. We also took a one-day excursion to a nearby island for snorkeling and swimming.
Aceh Tsunami Recovery
Following retreat we traveled with the MCC workers stationed in Aceh. We stayed with the program directors living in the capital city of Banda Aceh and saw first-hand the devastation still apparent from the earthquake and tsunami that occurred a little over a year ago destroyed homes and large ships carried 2 or 3 kilometers inland. The water marks left on buildings 3 km inland are about 9 ft high. Over 100,000 lives were lost about 1/3 of the population of the city. We visited the site of a mass grave for about 5,000. Clean water has been provided and a lot of new construction has taken place, but much more needs to be done with some people still living in tents.
Aceh Banda Aceh
The part of Banda Aceh that remains is a bustling city lots of street traffic and busy shops. As one of the more autonomous and more conservative religious areas of Indonesia, banners declare that all citizens are expected to wear Islamic dress. Aceh is also known for its excellent coffee production and coffee shops, one of which we enjoyed visiting.
Aceh Samalanga
We traveled 4 hours from Banda Aceh to Samalanga, a more rural area also affected by the tsunami. We stayed with 2 American MCC workers and their Acehnese partners. They took us by motorcycle, over less than perfect roads, to see several projects related to the recovery of the fishing industry building structures for boiling and drying fish as well as new boat construction.
Riot
Back in Papua, we experienced a violent protest and response by paramilitary police on our campus on March 16 that resulted in the closure of the university for one week and little activity the second week following the incident. We were not the targets, but as a precaution we moved to another town for 4 nights and then returned home when things had calmed down. During this time we stayed in close touch with and received a lot of support from our church friends and neighbors.
Buddhist Temple
Although the dominant religion in Papua is Christianity, other religions found in Indonesia are also found here especially in urban areas. On a hill overlooking the Jayapura harbor is a beautiful Buddhist temple and grounds.
Holiday outing
All Christian, Moslem, Hindu, and Buddhist holidays are observed here. So, on the Hindu New Year (30 March) we joined friends to visit a Papuan village and enjoy a nearby stream. The cold, clear water rushing over rocks was wonderful! We were also introduced to a common plant here known as the shy plant because its leaves close tightly whenever they are touched.
Easter
Special activities for Easter extended from Good Friday through Easter Monday. At our church on Easter Sunday there was special music by a children’s choir and a women’s choir as well as a fellowship time with snacks after church. Children and youth, who were camping in the seminary grounds for the entire period, also had an Easter egg hunt after church.
UNCEN Activities Beach Trip
Sally Jo was invited to attend a post-Easter celebration organized by English students. After a worship service there was food and fun in the waves at a local beach.
Highland Guest House
After Easter we traveled with MCC friends visiting from Java to a highland guesthouse at an elevation of about 6000 feet overlooking the beautiful Baliem River valley. Daytime temperatures were pleasant, and nights were quite chilly. We stayed there two nights.
Highland Hiking and Vistas
To get to our guest house we flew 45 minutes from Jayapura to Wamena, traveled by taxi about an hour, and then hiked another 2 hours. On our return we hiked 5 hours, nearly the entire distance to Wamena, and then took a taxi for the last 3 kilometers. We also took a 4-hour hike further along the Baliem River valley during our full day at the guest house.
Highland River Crossings
Since it is near the end of the rainy season, the rivers and streams were very full, and some river banks were very muddy. So crossing them was a bit tricky at times!
Highland People
On our hikes we met many friendly people. Although traditional (un)dress is disappearing, many other traditional practices remain. It was good for us to experience a bit of the culture that we do not see in Jayapura, but from which some of our students come.
Highland Farms and Buildings
We enjoyed seeing traditional grass thatched houses, stone walls, and sweet potato agriculture in a region that was unknown to the rest of the world until about 60 years ago. Other structures now include churches, primary schools, and Indonesian military posts.
Papeda the local food
Papeda is a sticky, glu-like, base that is eaten with a kind of fish stew/soup. In a meal it replaces rice or potatoes. It comes from the trunk of the Sagu palm tree which is cut and ground into pulp that is then soaked and strained to get a liquid. From the dried liquid a type of flour is obtained which is then used to make papeda. We have photos of the initial process as well as of an MCC colleague demonstrating the final product.
Village on Stilts
We enjoyed a weekend outing with several university students to a village built on stilts over shallow water next to a long thin peninsula in the bay near Jayapura. To get there we used a narrow boat equipped with outriggers. A church, village offices, and all houses were connected by walkways on stilts. Gardening was even done in flatbed boxes. We waded through knee-deep water to reach an island and were also offered a ride in a dugout canoe. Starfish were found in the water and we observed small crabs moving balls of sand into interesting patterns. On the ocean side of the peninsula we enjoyed seeing the active surf.
HIV/AIDS Training
Sally Jo recently visited an HIV/AIDS training session for church leaders from across Papua that was hosted by an MCC partner organization. The participants are expected to implement additional trainings and educational activities in their home areas. One of the beginning activities asked small groups to discuss the question, Why is sexual activity so popular?
UNCEN Activities Elementary School
Ron was invited to attend a special day at a local elementary school. Activities planned and led by university students included aerobics, painting the school gate, cementing a new flag pole, and making artificial flowers from plastic grocery bags. The head teacher was eager to show the school garden. Ron and a faculty member led a short workshop for the teachers at the school.
Global Families Program
Global Families is an MCC program that helps to support students at all levels, elementary school through seminary, and their families who have significant financial need. Some live in remote (but beautiful) areas and others live in urban areas. We were privileged to accompany those in charge to visit some of the families and hear their stories and expressions of gratitude.
UNCEN Activities Mathematics
Ron has met with and assisted faculty members with their classes for future elementary school teachers. The topic recently was different number bases. Students working in groups investigated results using chips.
UNCEN Activities Library
Sally Jo has been working hard in the Education Department library. Broken shelves have been fixed and a lot of dirt and grime has been removed. Once the tables were cleared many students were eager to use the space and resources. In addition during the past two months she was finally able to make some progress in getting a computerized catalog system started and is now organizing training sessions for local staff.
Working with Faculty
Ron has spent significant time working with other faculty members, introducing them to the use of mathematical software, manipulatives, and games. Some of the materials were already here but were not being used because the instructions were written in English.
Outing to Sentani Waterfalls
We recently enjoyed a holiday outing to a waterfall on the side of Cyclops Mountain with good views of Lake Sentani. The climb was hot and sticky, but we were rewarded by beautiful cascades and a deep pool of clear cold water to jump into. On the return down we enjoyed the view of rain falling on distant mountains.
Abepura
We will soon be leaving to return home. We will miss our town of Abepura and the minivan taxis that we have used to get around. We will miss the little fruit stands and food vendors along the street as well as the quiet little road just above our house.
Saying Good-Bye
Two days before departure a farewell was held in our honor. It included speeches, good food, photo ops with the Vice-Rector and our Dean and with others, as well as two Cenderawasih University gold rings that were presented to us. The following verses were quoted by our Dean:
Kalau ada jarum yang patah
Jangan disimpan dalam lemari
Kalau ada kata yang salah
Jangan disimpan dalam hati
Kalau ada sumur di lading
Bolehlah kita menumpang mandi
Kalau ada umur yang panjang
Bolehlah kita bersua lagi
Translation:
If there is a broken needle
Don’t store it in the cupboard
If there is a false word
Don’t store it in the heart
If there is a well for cleaning
Let us join in a mandi (bath)
If we live a long time
Let us meet again.
Departure
On June 2 we left Jayapura by ship on a 6-day journey to Jakarta. About 12 well-wishers accompanied us to the harbor and waited until our ship Labobar arrived at 9 pm. We boarded at 10:30 pm and stayed up until departure at 1:20 am to see the lights of Jayapura disappear behind us. We went to sleep in very comfortable accommodations and were treated to three fine meals each day. On deck we had plenty of opportunities to rub shoulders and become acquainted with some of the 2000 or so passengers.
People and Harbor Activity
From an outside deck we could watch people as well as the loading and unloading of cargo.
Interesting Boats
Along the way we saw a lot of fishing activity and passed many interesting boats.
Ports of Call
We made three stops in Papua that included an early morning in Manokwari and a monument welcoming us to Sorong. We also saw the minarets in Makassar (Sulawesi) and navy ships in Surabaya (Java). A tug pulled us into our docking space in Jakarta.
Our Favorite Day
Our last day in Papua proved to be our favorite day of the trip. It began with a sunrise as we entered Manokwari harbor, passing a sister ship there, and meeting the son of our assistant Dean with three of his university friends. From there we passed beautiful mountains, including waterfalls all day long. In the evening we were greeted with a full rainbow over the Sorong harbor and a spectacular sunset a very nice way to remember our departure from Papua.
Where in the World Are We?
The country of Indonesia is an archipelago of an estimated 17,000 islands stretching approximately 3,000 miles from Banda Aceh (location of 2004 tsunami) in the west to Jayapura in the east. We live and work in Abepura which is situated between Lake Sentani and Jayapura. From Jayapura/Abepura it is about a one and a half hour drive to the border of Papua New Guinea. The nearest town in PNG is Vanimo, about a one hour drive beyond the border. We traveled there recently to renew our Indonesian visas. (Satellite images courtesy of Google Earth)
UNCEN
We work on the original (old) campus of Universitas Cenderawasih (UNCEN). Cenderawasih means Bird of Paradise, and that bird is featured on the main entrance gate. Located near the main gate is a pedestrian overpass featuring Papuan motifs, as well as the Administration Building and other older buildings. The campus is also being updated with newer facilities.
Birthday Party
Our MCC co-worker decided to throw a birthday party for herself and asked us to help make 10 pies for the event. We also had help from a neighbor family, and the pies were baked, two at a time, in a small stove-top oven. All of her co-workers, friends, and students were invited, and on the day of the party over a hundred guests showed up at her house. In addition to pie, a meal of rice and noodles was served. Entertainment included music provided by a choir of her students. Needless to say, there was a lot of clean-up to do, but there was also time for an informal introduction to American square dancing! It was a fun event.
A Papuan Thanksgiving
We celebrated American Thanksgiving by going out to eat at a “Padang” restaurant with a couple of friends. The “menu” is literally placed on the table in its entirety. What you eat is what you pay for!
Papuan Wedding
We were invited to a wedding that was held in a church on one of the islands in Lake Sentani. The wedding party and all of the guests were transported to the island by Johnson (motor boats). The bridal party was escorted to the church by a drum and flute band. After the 2-hour church service and wedding ceremony we were all transported to another island for a reception at the home of the grooms parents. There we relaxed under palm trees surrounded by beautiful flowers and a nice breeze and were served a full meal.
MCC Team Meetings
On December 9 we returned to Java for MCC team meetings. We had an overnight in Jakarta with an opportunity to ride in a bajai. The next day we saw Javanese countryside through dirty train windows. Then four days of team meetings in a mountain resort provided a good time together with about 20 others, including North Americans as well as Indonesian staff. We worshiped together, shared the joys and frustrations of our assignments, did some planning for the future, and concluded with communion.
MCC Christmas Party
On December 16 all MCC personnel and their families who were in the Salatiga area celebrated Christmas together at the home of the country reps. Thirty-two people enjoyed a feast of chicken, stuffing, sweet potatoes, mashed potatoes, beans, bread, pumpkin pie, mango pie, and decorated cookies. The evening ended with a gift exchange and some time for singing Christmas carols.
Kalimantan
December 18 23 we traveled to Kalimantan with 3 MCC friends to view orang-utan at Tanjung Puting National Park. We traveled, ate, and slept on a small boat, accompanied by a crew of two and a travel guide, with just enough room for 5 of us to sleep on the upper deck under mosquito nets at night. We took a number of hikes through the rain forest and saw many orang-utan, especially at several feeding stations, but also elsewhere along the way. We had repeated sightings of two kinds of monkeys, gibbons, and many different beautiful birds.
Christmas Get-away
December 23 29 the two of us relaxed by ourselves at a beautiful Javanese get-away home near Klaten (30 minutes from Jogjakarta) provided by friends. It is located in the middle of a small traditional village and came complete with house help, gardener, and driver who took care of us royally! We also had time for shopping and meeting up with friends from Jogjakarta. On Christmas day we had a special meal of gado-gado, chicken, tofu, tempeh, rice, and fresh mango. We provided Christmas music from our laptop.
Return to Papua
On December 29 we left Java late at night. After a 4-hour lay-over in Bali, we continued on to Papua arriving at Timika on the south coast just after sunrise on December 30. From there we crossed rugged mountains the highest in Papua and had a direct view of the controversial Freeport mine. It is the worlds largest gold mine and the third largest copper mine. Then it was on to our landing next to Lake Sentani near Abepura and Jayapura on the north coast. The crossing took about one hour.
Papuan New Year
It was good to be home and enjoy our own simple Christmas decorations again. We also found many preparations underway to bring in the New Year. As the New Year arrived fireworks were going off all around our town of Abepura, and there were about 6 batteries of cannon on the surrounding hills that were booming very loudly. One was just a little ways above our house! The sound and light show lasted about two hours but the cannons continued all night! Added to this, there are many “rumah natal” (Christmas houses) that were specially built and decorated and from which loud music was playing.
Hiking near Abepura
Directly across the valley from our home is a hill that we have wanted to climb. So a few weeks ago, with assistance from an English student and some friends and family, we made the trek. At the bottom we needed to negotiate thick mud from recent floods. Then we ascended mostly through forest and arrived at the top with views of Lake Sentani in the distance one way and the Jayapura bay the other way. Looking directly across towards the UNCEN campus and our house we could also see the devastation left by the floods to the fields below. We took a steep descent on the other side to a small kabun or farm where we saw pigs being washed down in their pens. We rested there a bit and scraped off grass seeds from our clothes with a knife blade before returning home.
Vanimo, PNG
We stayed at the Vanimo Beach Hotel with beautiful views of the bay. We also enjoyed a 3-hour walk around the entire peninsula. Not far from Vanimo are world-renowned surfing locations, but local children have been doing it for centuries on home-made boards.
Opening Lecture
As part of the start-up activities for a new semester Ron was asked to present an opening lecture for all of the students and some of the faculty members of PGSD (Elementary Education Program). So he gave a 1-hour talk on Learning Mathematical Concepts (in contrast to just learning procedures) illustrated by examples from arithmetic, algebra, and geometry. It was delivered almost entirely in Indonesian and was well received by about 150 attentive and engaged students. On short notice Sally Jo also gave a 5-minute report on her work in the School of Education library.
Trip to Serui
We recently made a trip to Serui to become acquainted with the family of a young woman who plans to be in North America next year under the International Visitor Exchange Program (IVEP) of MCC. Our trip began with a 1-hour flight by regular jet to Biak, which has one of the largest runways in Indonesia due to its strategic role during World War II. Because of flight schedules we needed to stay there overnight in a small hotel next to the airport but also next to the sea with gorgeous views across to Yapen Island. The next day we flew low (just high enough to get over the mountains) in a 20-seater plane, with full view of our pilots, to Serui on the other side of Yapen Island.
Serui: Evening walk
Our first evening there we enjoyed a long walk near the coast on the outskirts of Serui.
Serui: Visiting a family
The next day we were treated to a fabulous lunch by Stephannes family. In addition to her parents, we met her grandparents, siblings, aunt & uncle, and several friends. Pictured at the table are Sally Jo, the MCC staff person who traveled with us, Stephannes grandfather, parents, younger brother, and Stephanne herself. After lunch Ron had an opportunity to help Stephannes sister with her math homework, Stephanne worked with the MCC staff person on documents, Sally Jo got acquainted with her mother and grandmother, and many photos were taken, including one of the entire family.
Serui: Visiting schools and libraries
We needed to stay in Serui for 3 nights because there are scheduled flights only on 3 days a week. So one day arrangements were made for us to visit two schools — a middle school and a high school and a public library. Ron had a chance to interact with one class, and Sally Jo was able to experience 3 different libraries. The public library was only 2 years old and was quite impressive.
Lake Sentani
About a 30-minute drive from where we live is a large, beautiful fresh-water lake named Sentani. It sits at the foot of the Cyclops Mountains and includes many islands. Many people live around the lake and on the islands in houses built on stilts. Dug-out canoes are used for fishing and as a means of transportation. Pigs roam freely in the settlements. Birds that we have seen there include herons and terns. (As a side-note, during World War II General McArthur had his headquarters located on a hill overlooking Lake Sentani.)
UNCEN Yudisium (Graduation)
We have just had 3-hour graduation ceremony for about 400 students in the School of Education. In addition to receiving their diplomas or degrees, graduates recited a lengthy pledge to the country and to their university represented by two flags. It was also quite a style show, including one graduate adorned with Bird of Paradise (Cenderawasih) feathers. The lengthy time was eased by providing us with boxed snacks and drink, and even those on the podium were relaxed enough to use a cell phone while names were being read. As a result of us being introduced to the audience we met a young man afterwards, graduating in biology, who lived in our home town of Goshen two years ago under the MCC International Visitor Exchange Program! We had heard of him but did not realize that he was a student here at UNCEN.
Orientation
We are beginning an assignment with Mennonite Central Committee in Papua, Indonesia. This is made possible through a 1-year sabbatical from Goshen College. We will be serving as curriculum consultants at Cenderawasih University in Abepura, near Jayapura.
Our assignment began with a week of orientation at MCC headquarters in Akron, Pennsylvania, in July. It was exciting to meet about 35 others going to international assignments, including 6 of us going to Indonesia. We also enjoyed the new facilities, called the Welcoming Place, now used for orientations.
Departure
We left Los Angeles at night on August 8, lost August 9 over the International Date Line, and arrived in Singapore (via Hong Kong) in the afternoon of August 10, about 22 hours later! We spent a night there to rest up, but mainly to get our temporary visas for Indonesia. While there we enjoyed the national botanical gardens across the street from our guest house.
Arrival in Papua and Home Stay
From Singapore we flew to Jakarta and then took an overnight flight to Jayapura, Papua, arriving at about 9 am on August 12. After a lot of formalities we arrived at our hosts home for a one-week home stay. The purpose of the home stay is to immerse ourselves in Papuan culture and language as our first orientation to our assignment. We struggle with language, but have truly enjoyed their friendship. We also enjoyed delicious food and a trip to a beautiful local beach.
Introductions at UNCEN
During our home stay we also had one full day of introductions and orientation at Universitas Cenderawasi (UNCEN) where we will be working. We were happy to find out that our tasks will indeed be closely related to our specialties Ron working with the mathematics education faculty and Sally Jo working with the librarians. The day included a visit to the Rektor of the university in the administration building perched atop a small mountain as well as dinner out at a lovely restaurant hosted by the Dean of the education faculty.
In-country Orientation
After our first week in Papua, we made the 12-hour journey back to Java to join the other new MCCers for a few days of orientation at a cool mountain retreat near Salatiga. In addition to orientation sessions, our time together included worship, relaxation, a hike to ancient Hindu temple ruins and hot springs, and a concluding meal at a local fish restaurant.
Language Study
We began our language classes in Salatiga on August 24. We have a total of 4 hours of class per day (two 2-hour blocks) with two teachers at Satya Wachana University. It is difficult for us, but we feel we are making progress!
Our House
During this time of language study we are living in a small, but comfortable, house in Salatiga. We are the first occupants; so not everything is quite completed, but it more than serves our needs.
Jogjakarta
The first weekend in September we had an extra day due to a Friday holiday. So we decided to make a trip to Jogjakarta (3 hours away by small travel van) to visit close friends we had made nearly 5 years ago when we lead the Goshen College Study Service Term there.
Mt Merbabu
The neighborhood where we live is in the shadow of Mt Merbabu (altitude 10,000+ feet). After our first week here we joined other MCCers to go up the mountain. It is almost always climbed at night with flashlights. The two of us decided to stop at the 9,000 ft level after 5 hours of difficult climbing on slippery dusty trails. We huddled in a rocky cave to try to keep warm until sunrise. The morning was glorious!
Special Visitors
This past weekend a team of 10 visitors representing MCC constituencies in the US, Canada, and Europe arrived in Salatiga. They will be in the country for about 3 weeks, and all MCCers in the Salatiga area participated in 3 days of seminars and orientation activities for them including reports from MCC partners from various parts of Indonesia, a graduation party for university education students from disadvantaged areas, and worship at a local Mennonite church. We had several opportunities to practice our language skills!
Salatiga
We have enjoyed getting to know our surroundings here in Salatiga for the past 5 weeks. It is a bustling small city of 130,000. Sights include streets full of motorcycles, becaks (pedicabs), dokars (horse-drawn carts), and angkotas (public mini-vans). In addition to the university where we have our language classes, the city also includes a bustling market, a star-rated hotel/spa, and lots of good little restaurants. Our quiet neighborhood near the edge of town also provides quiet walks along rural roads through groves of banana, palm, and cassava.
Returning to Papua
On October 4 we will arrive back in Papua. So our next entries will be from there.
Arrival back in Papua
On Oct 4 we arrived at Sentani Airport. We have made several trips (45 min each way) from our campus in Abepura to Jayapura with lovely views of the harbor. We recently met with a group of former “IVEPers” – young people who spent a year in North America under the International Visitor Exchange Program of MCC.
Our House in Abepura
We live in half of a duplex perched at the top of a very steep street and driveway. We have wonderful views down over our campus and out over the surrounding hills. The interior is more than adequate for our needs, including a spacious kitchen and an air conditioned bedroom.
Beginning Assignment (Ron)
During the past two weeks Ron has visited one, and sometimes two, math classes each day either in the elementary or the secondary teacher training programs. A class period lasts for about 3 hours. It has been very interesting and he is learning a lot of new mathematical terminology in Indonesian. Teaching styles vary widely, as they do in other parts of the world, but student behavior tends to be a lot more subdued and respectful than in North America! He has especially enjoyed helping to introduce some new computer software in a lab for a geometry class and helping to introduce some manipulatives for use in an elementary classroom. (Photos later)
Beginning Assignment (Sally Jo)
This week we began to meet other faculty and get introduced to the School of Education facilities where we are located in the old campus. We were both assigned to a large office, actually an empty classroom outfitted with two desks and a few chairs for meetings with others. Sally Jo will assist in two small libraries one for the secondary education program and one for the elementary program. There is a lot of organization needed, but the first priority identified by the local librarians is to get their records computerized.
Visit to the University Library (New Campus)
We paid a visit to the main campus this week to see what resources are available there and to make some contacts for future assistance. It is a beautiful building, but there is also a lot of need to update their limited resources.
Fun with Visitors
This past weekend we had MCC team visitors from Jogjakarta for three nights. On Saturday we all went to the beach called Base G on the Pacific Ocean named during the Second World War. Then in the evening we enjoyed eating at a fish restaurant and watching the sun go down over Lake Sentani.
Papuan Museum
Our campus includes a nice museum representing many of the indigenous groups of Papua. The pillars around the outside of the building are decorated with traditional Papuan motifs. Inside are many artifacts, including fine wood carvings, musical instruments, and preserved specimens of different varieties of the Bird of Paradise.
Outings
We have just had a long weekend due to the holidays following the end of Ramadan. We used some of that time to go on two outings with Papuan friends. The first was a 2-hour drive (one-way) past beautiful coastal scenery to a quiet spot beside a clear cool stream where we enjoyed a picnic and swimming. The second was a hike up the mountains behind our house. That was much more strenuous but provided excellent views of Abepura, where we live and work. There was also a beautiful valley at the top that we explored before returning.