Our final week in Chuncheon
included a number of “farewell” activities.
Things were just beginning to open up and people felt more comfortable
inviting us to join them.
One day Yoon Shik Lee invited us to visit his home. He and his family had lived in our house in Goshen in 2005-6 when we spent the year in Papua, Indonesia. He and his wife live about 45 minutes from Chuncheon in a lovely spot in the mountains only 12 miles from the DMZ. They are developing a retreat center – Abba Shalom Koinonia. We took a short walk in the woods/hill behind the house and then walked down to the river below their house. Beautiful and peaceful. They also own a thermotherapy center (which we visited) in the small town near them.
Songdo Cha, his wife and another couple (important in the beginnings of Anabaptists in Korea) from the Jesus Village Church invited us to a good Italian restaurant. We first met Songdo Cha when he was a visiting professor at Goshen College. Because of Covid, we had been able to visit the Jesus Village Church only once.
Songdo Cha on left
The Jesus Heart Church is located in the same space as our office. We had worshipped with them three Sundays and then they were closed because of Covid-19. They still had not opened when we left but some of them wanted to give us a farewell and to hear a little of our story. On our last Sunday afternoon a few first met in a French tea room where we had good black tea and delicious desserts (baked custard, cheesecake, and oranges). We then went back to the church where Boki (one of the church members) made a great meal of sushi. He is a trained chef and the meal was absolutely delicious.
tea room
looking from the outside
outside the tea room
cheesecake, custard, oranges and tea
making sushi
members
delicious food
meeting
Jesus Heart Church members
Our MCC staff had lunch together at SeongHan’s house one last time. This time they made Japanese Shabu-shabu which is a hotpot dish of thinly sliced meat and vegetables boiled in broth and served with dipping sauces. It is always good to visit SeongHan’s house. In the mountains, peaceful, beautiful, and always something new. He had laid out a labyrinth since the last time we were there.
shabu-shabu
SeongHan making coffee
dog would not let us have coffee outside!
labyrinth
labyrinth
gardens and mountains
beautiful view
On our last day in Chuncheon we took our final walk along the lake and drove around the lake one last time. It is a beautiful area!
We have left South Korea but before we blog about that final
week, we want to look back to the beginning of our time in Korea. During our first week there, we traveled to
Seoul for some orientation sightseeing.
We did not post much about it because we always thought we would
return. Little did we know the future.
When we visited Seoul that Saturday (middle of January), it
was very cold and we were still very much in jet-lag mode. We had other things to blog about at the time
and just assumed we would return to Seoul and then combine our activities into
one post. It didn’t happen.
We rode the train to Seoul that day – about 1 hour
ride. Our MCC service worker met us at
the station and showed us how to get to the subway which we rode. We ate lunch at an Indian restaurant.
view from train
view from train
outskirts of Seoul
riding the subway
Indian meal
We walked to Gyeongbok Palace, the
main royal palace of the Joseon dynasty.
It was built in 1395, reduced to ashes during the Japanese invasion of
1592, rebuilt in 1867, and again extensively damaged during the Japanese
occupation of the early 20th century. Restoration efforts have been ongoing since
1990. We took a tour and visited a
number of the buildings on the nearly 100-acre piece of land. It is a beautiful place with beautiful/ornate
buildings. We did not write down the
name of the places we visited so we can’t tell you. Just know that is was a remarkably
interesting area.
Gwanghwamun Gate
inside first courtyard
Heungnyemun Gate
courtyard
statue
throne
throne room
banquet hall
one of the buildings
ceiling
inside a building
roof
nearby temple
a tomb
We had wanted to see various other places in the vicinity,
but the main street was packed. Apparently,
it is a custom in recent years to hold huge rallies/protests on Saturday on
this street. Some groups were wanting a
former president released from prison; another group were demanding that the government
investigate the Sewol Ferry tragedy; another group were advocating for
recognition of the “Comfort Women” from the war. And many other issues.
outside palace gate
protesters
protesters
protesters
protesters
interesting architecture
Due to the COVID-19 pandemic, this was our only significant time spent in Seoul.
On May 8, which is “Parents
Day” in Korea, the MCC NEA “family” had their first and last team outing with
all of the team together. Because of
Covid-19 it has been difficult to all be together at one time.
our MCC team
our team minus Ron
The time was both celebratory
but also disturbing as we visited House of Sharing in Seoul.
This is a shelter for victims of Japanese military sexual slavery in World War
II commonly referred to as “comfort women.” The collection of buildings includes “The
Museum of Sexual Slavery by Japanese Military” which tries to tell the truth
about the Japanese military’s brutal abuse of women during the War. The present buildings were opened in
1998. The victims continue their
struggle for a formal apology and legal compensation from the Japanese
government. Every Wednesday they
participate in a protest in front of the Japanese embassy in Seoul.
As of December 2016, 239 women have registered as victims of Japanese military sexual slavery to South Korean government. As of 2001, there were 211 registered survivors in North Korea. It is estimated that there were 50,000 to 200,000 in 13 Asian-Pacific countries. This dark history was hidden for decades until the 1990’s when some women began to speak out.
The museum tells many of their stories. Maps are shown as to where they were recruited, taken, and returned. We could listen to some of their stories. We read of their histories and what they want from the Japanese government.
The residents here at House
of Sharing each have their own rooms but share time in a common living
area. They often meet visitors and give
their stories but because of Covid-19 they were not able to do so with us.
The House of Sharing
offers art therapy programs for its residents. In
2017, a memorial and exhibition hall opened on the grounds of the House of
Sharing. It includes a space to showcase the artwork surviving comfort women
have made. There is a replica of a room in a comfort station where women lived.
We have some photos but more of their stories can be seen on their official website. “We must record these things that were forced upon us.”
We recently visited a possible SALT/YAMEN placement. It is located about 170 miles south of us and was an all-day adventure by car with our MCC Connecting Peoples person. Bonacom (“bon”=good; com=community) is a religious intentional community located in a small village. There are 5 families in this location, each having their own home but sharing things in common.
location
They are located in a very
rural beautiful mountainous region and focus on organic farming. They raise chickens on organic feed which
they make themselves, using rice bran as its base. They raise rice so have much bran
available. (We were sad to see the
chickens kept in pens, however.) They get
about 1000 eggs a day!
They are raising vegetables
by hydroponic methods. Interesting to
see all the delicious-looking greens.
They send their produce all over the country.
The community was 12 families but recently 7 have moved to a different area so there are many empty buildings. They hope that others will join them. They have improved the village since they started, planting many flowers, building a community building.
We had lunch in a local restaurant – tofu in a chili broth with condiments.
We celebrated Buddha’s birthday April 30 and Labor Day on May 1. On Buddha’s birthday, we hiked up our nearby hill where we had discovered a small Buddhist temple. The temple was colorfully decorated with lanterns which had wishes/hopes attached. Since the temple was open, we were able to go inside the temple and look around the grounds.
entry way
lanterns for Buddha’s birthday
temple drum
lanterns with hopes/wishes
murals on temple walls
inside temple
temple ceiling
worshipers
altar
kimchi pots
in courtyard
area building
On May 1 SeongHan (MCC staff) took us to Seoraksan Mountain National Park and the coast.
location of park and coast
Seoraksan is the highest mountain in our province in eastern South Korea. It is the third highest mountain in South Korea. We hiked about 4.5 miles round trip – down and then up. The scenery was stunning. Our local meal in the middle of the hike was delicious.
starting on hike
hiking
following a stream
nature
waterfalls
many bridges
swinging bridge!
stream
bridge
trail
nature
another bridge
path
cherry blossoms
berdua
buddhist temple
temple grounds
azalea
lunch
nature
clear water
nature
afternoon coffee
Seoraksan Mountain
From there we went to Yangyang, located on the coast and visited Naksansa Temple which is a Korean Buddhist temple complex. It also had the lanterns strung for Buddha’s birthday. Naksansa was founded in 671. The temple mount is crowned by the Buddhist statue of Haesugwaneumsang ( Bodhisattva of Mercy), standing 49 feet high on a 9.2 ft high pedestal and was dedicated in 1977. It is the largest Buddhist statue of its kind in the Asia
The last week of April we made our first venture outside of Chuncheon by ourselves by car. (about 50 miles round trip) One of our staff members had recommended a rural area where the cherry blossoms would be beautiful. We had planned to go the previous weekend, when the trees would be at their fullest, but it rained. The trees were still lovely but we could see they were past their prime.
We stopped at a small road, parked and walk down the road a mile or so. It was wonderful to be out in the rural area. It happened to be a Mountain Eco Village but was incredibly quiet, except for bird songs. We had some beautiful views of the hills and lakes/rivers. Enjoyable!
We have explored more of the
city on foot. (Photos are in no
particular order.)
this says it all!
moon outside our apartment
one corner we pass every day
near our office
near us
love the sign!
spam is very popular
nearby cafe
50 km from DMZ
lots of war history
one of war monuments
love it
how to move belongings
fun with bubbles
fun with bubbles
hill near us
“People to People” program
Ike started program
countries who backed ROK in war
first thought it said “yoder”
street market
city hall gardens
wall in city hall courtyard
close-up of wall
bell in city hall gardens
Olympics 2018 mascots
Olympics 2018 mascots
hospital entrance
street market
We have a sculpture park that we often walk through on our way to the lake. Interesting sculptures! We also find it interesting that people here like to bring a tent to the park (supposedly not allowed) for a picnic and afternoon.
sculpture
sculpture
sculpture
sculpture
sculpture
sculpture
park
supposedly no tents allowed
social distancing?
We have eaten out several times, having a variety of food.
local restaurant
home of friends
friends
after a long walk!
During the two weeks in March that we were all in the office, we did have a wonderful meal at SeongHan’s (MCC staff) house with all staff and family. On Easter those of us in Chuncheon also gathered at his house for a lovely Easter dinner.
our staff and families
the meal
Heayoung
our staff is musical
music together
singing together
Easter dinner
Easter
preparing dessert
sunset from SeongHan’s home
sunset
We have had a couple of office visitors. And when more than one of us is in the office, we try to have 3:00 tea together.
Catholic Sisters from Seoul
partners who work with us in DPRK
staff meeting via Zoom
afternoon tea
And at home we have played games and put puzzles together. At one point we kept getting colder and colder. We realized that there seemed to be no heat. (We cannot control the heat; the heat is by hot water through the floor.) We finally asked one of our staff to contact our landlord, and yes, there had been no heat since April 1. (Outside temperatures were in the low 40’s at night.) There is no heat because the water pipes are corroded and there is a plan to redo them–but not this spring!
We realize that we have not
posted any blog since we returned from Chiang Mai, Thailand at the end of
February—and this is the end of April!
What has happened during those two months? Sure not what we expected. Looking back at that blog, feels like years
ago!
At the end of that trip, we
noted that the MCC team had decided, in the best interests of health, to work
from home for two weeks. We did so. We all returned to the office for about 2
weeks. Then the South Korean government
called for more “social distancing” and the cancellation of large group
gatherings, including closing schools and church services. Two of our MCC staff live in Seoul, about a 1-hour
train ride from Chuncheon. They also
both travel on crowded subways in Seoul in order to get to the train. So, it was decided that it was an individual
choice as to whether to come to the office or to work from home. We would follow this until schools were
open. It now seems that most things will
open after May 5—though not the schools.
Thus, our March and April
have been quite different. We have both
worked at home but also gone to the office some days. We have spent lots of time exploring the various
trails along the rivers and lakes and the hill near us. (Photos are in no particular order.)
path in early spring
clear day
view of city
looking towards mountains
walking/biking bridge
can you see the rock climbers?
stepping stones across another river
path and stepping stones
river through the city
pigeons
social distancing?
interesting bridge
wooden walkway
refreshment!
creating a new path under bridge
work on new path
spring is coming
fishing
beautiful trail through city
beautiful trail
even a tunnel
see the deer statue?
flowers in doorway
flowers on roof
looking across the river
The photos above are along the rivers and lake. We also have a hill near us that we sometimes hike.
sign says .45 km to our apt.
through the woods
interesting growth on tree
flowering trees
graves in forest
Buddhist temple on hill
bell of temple
As the weather became warmer, our walks became longer. The bikes were finally tuned and we did several bike rides—one around the lake, about 20 miles.
our first ride
along a river
along a river
starting around the lake
“boardwalk”
along a road
cherry blossoms
cherry blossoms
along the lake
“skywalk”
stop for coffee
cafe
bike route
along lake
Since non-essential travel is
discouraged, we have only been out of the city once – to attend a meeting in
Seoul. We have not been able to see many
of the historical and beautiful sites we had hoped. But we have seen Spring arrive in Chuncheon –
with all the beautiful color of spring flowers.
cherry tree blossoms, forsythia, magnolia, lilacs, azaleas, tulips,
hyacinth, spiraea, red bud, plum tree blossoms, dandelions, violets, and others
we cannot identify.
Saturday morning was spent at Seven Fountains Jesuit Spirituality Center for a silent retreat. One of the Fathers introduced us to the practice of meditation and explained the various areas around the center. We then spent 2 ½ hours in silence and our own thoughts. There was a labyrinth, several chapels, open gardens with birds chirping, water. It was a welcomed time by all of us. We ended our time there with a silent lunch.
our introduction
labyrinth
labyrinth
entrance to one of the chapels
open/quiet space
one chapel
water
peace
meditation space
water
We were then thrust out into the “real/loud” world! We went to Wat Umong built in 1297. It is famous for its tunnels and large stupa. The tunnels have many Buddhist images in carved nooks of the walls. There also are larger statues. The “naga” represents rebirth, death, and mortality. There is an area of broken statues. There are “talking trees” which have words of wisdom in Thai and English. These proverbs hang from trees on footpaths leading to the small lake where we fed the fish and saw many pigeons and turtles.
entrance to wat
Buddha statue in tunnel
in wall niche
devotee
stupa on top of tunnel
naga
broken statues
in museum
along path
feeding fish
hungry!
pigeons
turtle
proverb
proverb
words so true
We were joined in our afternoon activities by Min, the administrative assistant for the MCC office, and the Area Directors for Southeastern Asia. We went to a craft market for a cold Thai milk tea and for shopping.
Southeast Asia Area Directors
waiting for our tea
chickens in the market area
write!
In the evening we went to the Night Market, stopping on the way to see a championship game of Sepak Takraw, or kick volleyball. a sport native to southeast asia. A rattan ball is used and players are only allowed to use their feet, knee, chest and head to touch the ball. It also happened to be the night for a gay pride parade in Chiang Mai.
street lights
market
market
Sepak Takraw
see the ball & foot?
gay pride parade
gay pride parade
parade
parade
Sunday we had a short worship and sharing time in the morning followed by a relaxing afternoon. We all went out for one last meal of khao soi gai – and it was the best! Also cold Thai milk tea was refreshing. We began our travels back to Chuncheon, leaving Chiang Mai at 11 p.m. and arriving at our apartment 1 p.m. the next day! Because of coronavirus and because our travels included being in close proximity with many people (planes and buses), the MCC team has chosen to work from home for two weeks.
The NEA (Northeast Asia) MCC
Retreat was scheduled in Chiang Mai last fall before we arrived in Korea. The office wanted it during February when MCC
work is slower and Chuncheon is grey and cold. They asked to go to some place
sunny and warm. This happened. We left and returned to Chuncheon with temps
in the 30s and 40s and spent the retreat in temps of 80s and 90s! What was not predicted was the outbreak of
the Coronavirus. Two members of our MCC
team were not able to go with us. (One
had medical issues and the doctor said she could not risk the possibility and
the other had a sick mother and did not want to take any risks.) We missed them.
It seemed like a lot of travelling but once we got there, we could relax. From Chuncheon we took a 2-hour bus ride to airport, 6-hour air flight, 2-hour layover in Bangkok, 1-hour air flight to Chiang Mai, and finally a 30-minute car ride to Juniper Tree, a retreat center where we stayed. We, personally, had previously been here for a meeting three years before. It is a lovely spot of shade, and relaxing conditions. See http://rsjwaltzing.com/?cat=49 for more photos from that visit in 2016. And we also visited Chiang Mai in 2015:
After a rest, we visited the MCC office. The Area Directors for both Central & NEA Asia program and the Southeast Asia program live in Chiang Mai and have a joint office. Our directors live next to the office and we had a nice welcome supper with them. Khao Soi Gai was served and became a favorite of all of us. We had it four times during our time. Khao Soi Gai is a classic Northern Thailand speciality – a creamy soup of braised chicken in a coconut-y curry broth with boiled and fried noodles. We ended with another favorite – mango sticky rice. Fresh mango with sticky rice and sweet coconut milk and salt over. Yum!
our “room”
in MCC office
Area Director’s home
serving ourselves
mango sticky rice
The next morning we had a “working” session followed by a fun afternoon. We went to Taweechol Botanical Gardens. It is a beautiful area with orchids, ferns, anthurium, palm trees, man-made waterfalls, and topiaries crafted into many shapes (dinosaurs, giraffe, camels, birds, elephant, etc.). We rented bikes and rode around for about 2 hours.
working session
our transport
fun riding
gardens
gardens
petting the topiary!
beauty
baobab (from Africa?)
gardens
koi
entering Buddhist area
fountain
topiary
cosmos
gardens
“petting” area
our SALTer
getting that photo
photogenic?
waterfall
gardens
We then went to Sankampaeng Hot Springs. Two of our team went swimming and the rest of us dangled our feet in the hot stream. We boiled eggs in the hot springs and ate them with soy sauce. Quite good. We ended with a nice supper of Khao Soi Gai.